double gauze archer popover
Posted on 19 May 2016
Archer Popover #2 felt way more successful than Archer Popover #1. After a little practice, the placket makes so much more sense! My best advice is to press everything really well when you flip it to the front of the piece…it makes everything fall into place a little easier than if you only press the parts that you’re actively working on, like one length of the placket piece. Once the placket is laying flat on the right side of the shirt front, I was able to visualize it much better as I worked through it.
After my first Archer, I felt like the sleeves were a little too loose and I should size down. I decided not to for this Archer, just in case it was a fabric thing instead of a sizing thing. It’s definitely a sizing thing for me – I will need to size down at least one (maybe two) sizes in the upper sleeves for my next Archer. The cuffs feel good, but there’s just a bit too much extra room up near my shoulders and biceps. Time for some grading.
I got this double gauze from the Sommer fabric collection at Hawthorne Threads. Until now, the only double gauze I had worked with was Nani Iro, so I think I’ve been a little bit spoiled in that sense. This fabric has a much looser weave than Nani Iro, which made it a little tricky to work with. Lots of steam definitely helped to get crisp lines on the plackets, but the pieces just shifted very easily, especially when cutting them out. It was a little more like working with a lightweight rayon than a woven cotton in that sense.
I also haven't quite figured out how to make buttonholes work for this fabric. Part of me was just so excited to wear it that I didn't try that hard, but I did a couple of test buttonholes and the double gauze just didn't register with my buttonhole foot and it made quite a mess. I think I'll need to reinforce it with some sort of twill tape...if I can ever stop wearing it for long enough to make it happen.
I wear a tank under most of my button-up shirts, but if you’re planning on wearing this as a dress or don’t want to layer, you might need to line it. The fabric isn’t super sheer, but the looser weave definitely makes it a little less opaque than a double gauze like Nani Iro.
Now that all is said and done, I don’t actually think that I would recommend this fabric for such a structured shirt…but it would make an amazing Wiksten Tank or Scout Tee! I’m secretly hoping I have enough left over for another top for summer…